April: Style Updates...BantuKnots and Shingling Curly Girl Staples

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April is a great month....And I'm hoping to have a few great hair days. Its been nine months since I decided to fully cut my hair to its natural texture. At this point I'm pleased my hair is long enough (neck length) to try out my old favorite way to coil my hair...Bantu Knots. Initially I was hesitant to try the bantu knots on natural hair shorter than shoulder length, because of the shrinkage/frizz factors. However I'm glad I did try it on neck length hair because the knot out provided a defined coil. It didn't get frizzy when the hair was separated and fluffed, which tends to happen when I try twist outs.

I clarified using the Aztec Bentonite Clay mixed with ACV and Olive Oil. Once that was fully rinsed I deep conditioned using the As I Am Elation Hydration moisture mask. After allowing that to steam on the hair for 30 min's I rinsed with cool water while fully detangling the hair. Working in 2 sections I applied the KimmayTube leave in conditioner and pure argan oil to seal the ends. To set the Bantu Knots I used Shea Moisture Hair Smoothie and thin hair pins to secure the coils. I allowed the bantu knots to remain in for 2 days, applied Gro Aut Oil to my scalp and styled with scarves. On the 3rd day I did a bantu knot out style, and re co-washed on the 4th day.

On days that I simply do not have a lot of time to bantu or coil hair I have found a new luv for shingling.

A big factor in my new found luv for shingling has to do with my tools. I do not like using a fine tooth combs on my hair...it just seems to tear at it. But my trusty Denman brush does an excellent job shingling my hair without damaging or pulling it. In the above pics the hair is still wet...
  I did a quick co-wash in the shower using As I Am Coconut Co-Wash and >Because my hair is type 4 and very thick<...while in the shower I pull my hair into 2 sections. Upper and lower, each section is held with a clip. This allows me to smooth my edges and wrap the elastic around my poof easier.
Applied KimmayTube leave-in made with Knot Today detangler and scrunched it thru the hair. I used argan serum on my ends to help eliminate frizzing while the hair dries throughout the day. I then used Miss Jessie's Curly Pudding to shingle the hair in the poof. Working in sections I gently brushed the hair from tip to root.
*note* The edges could have been smoothened with a boar bristle brush to get a "neater" appearance.
It has been 9 months since I have straightened my hair...I have 3 more months until my 1yr anniversary milestone.
 Patiently waiting, hoping for the healthiest hair I can grow.

January Style Update: Lighten Up....Healthy Transformation Black Hair to Dark Blonde/Light Brown

While I adore black tresseses I felt the need to be a bit daring and lift my hair color to a light brown/honey blonde hue. The simplist and of course more expensive way to lighten black hair is to seek a color haircare professional. However if you are like me and on a budget paying $80+ was simply not going to happen...I have more time and patience than money. Taking on this task took alot of research to handle this at home, and a bit of trial and error. This process was actually done over the course of an entire day...So YES I can't stress enough...patience, patience, patience.
Disclaimer: I am NOT a hair care professional. I am simply sharing how I colored my hair and it remained healthy during the process...No breakage, Scalp damage, or Shedding.
I had to re-educate myself a bit about the color wheel to understand how to balance the color I was applying to my hair. What I mean is going from black hair to any form of light brown or blonde could easily lead to a brassy red/orange disaster. So to avoid this common mistake here are a few tips and the process of how I colored my hair.
Tip #1: Choose a hair color that states "Ash" in the color discription...meaning Light Ash Brown etc...
Its up to you to determine what brand you would like to use, and if you would like to use permanent, semi permanent etc. I personally chose a permanent hair color by Ion at Sally's. Also when you chose your hair color also pick up a packet of Ardell Red/Gold Corrector Plus. This will be added to your hair dye mixture to help reduce and eliminate any goldish brassy red hues that can occur.

Tip#2 Back to that color wheel reference...Blues and Violets balances black hair as its lifted to lighter hues. WARNING: In essence to go from Black to Blonde colors you will be bleaching your hair. I chose to lift my hair color by using Salon Care Prism Lites Lightner in Violet, using a 40 developer. I used Clairol Soy4Plex Pure White Creme Developer 40 Maximum Lift.
 I mixed the powder with developer as directed on the package in a plastic mixing bowl and applied it to my hair with gloved hands and a application brush, working in 4 sections.

Tip#3 Apply the lightener to your roots last. Your roots will process faster than the rest of your hair, so its best to apply to the roots after the rest of your strands have been covered.
....Cover the hair with a plastic processing cap and pay attention to how your hair color is changing. Never exceed the time directed on the package. I checked my hair every 10 min's until the color was lifted to a taupish brown.....It took about 30 mins to achieve this lift.

Once it was time to rinse I Shampoo'd the hair gently and throughly. Then applied a Reconstructer Protein Conditioner. I prefer to use Renpure Amazing Miracle Deep Penetrating Reconstructor because although it is a protein conditioner its also moisturizing and my hair never feels like straw. The reason I applied a protein conditioner to my hair was to re-add the strength, and rebuild the strands. Bleaching basically strips the hair so this step helps conteract that potential damage. I allowed the reconstructer to sit for 20 mins, then rinsed and applied a moisture rich conditioner. I prefer to use Renpure Organics My Pretty Hair is Parched moisturizing conditioner, its light weight and very effective.
Now keep in mind its best NOT to wash hair 24hours prior to coloring hair..however I broke this rule. I sat in front of a fan to airdry my hair, once it was completely dry I then prepped to color my hair.

Tip#4 Use vaseline to base the scalp, ear, and neck areas  just as you would when applying a relaxer. This not only provides a protective barrier for the scalp but also henders the skin from staining from the dye.

Mixing: I used a weaker developer when mixing the actual color than I used with the bleach/color lifter. My hair was already lifted to a taupe brown color so their was no need for me to continue to use the harsher 40 developer. I mixed the Ion Ash Light Brown color with Loreal  Oreor Creme 20 Developer in a needle nose bottle. To this mixture I also added the small packet of Ardell red/gold corrector plus. Shaking the bottle with gloved hands until all the ingredients were throughly mixed together.

Application: Working in sections again I applied to the root area last because they process the color faster than the ends. Fully saturate the hair, and I finger comb it through, you could use a wide tooth comb if you prefer. Once the hair is fully saturated cover with a plastic cap and start the timing process...again not exceeding the directed time on the packaging. I check the process every 10 min's to make sure the process is going how I would like. For faster developement you could also sit under a hooded dryer on low setting, but still check your progress.

 Keeping it conditioned & healthy: My color was fully developed in 20 mins and it was time for me to rinse. Now again I'm not a pro but these steps helped me. I did NOT shampoo my hair I co-washed it instead. Rinsed the hair throughly until the water was running clear. I then applied Aphogee Keratin 2 Minute Reconstructor, covered the hair with a plastic cap and allowed to sit for 5 mins. I then rinsed and applied a moisture rich deep conditioner, I chose Shea Moisture Moisture Deep Conditioning Mask and mixed in 1tbs of Olive Oil. I then steamed the mask for 30 min's using the DIY steam method.
Once I did the final rinse of the conditioners I added moisture leave ins and completed a no heat style of finger coils and a coil out fro look.
Here are the results....

I'm very pleased I was able to not only save alot of $$$ by coloring my hair at home. But my hair remained healthy and in good condition. To keep it healthy I will not lighten it again for at least 12 weeks. And I deep condition once a week.
I hope these tips help you with your hair lightening journey..and if you do not get the desired results DON'T PANIC and risk damaging your hair. You can either go to a salon and allow them to do a color correct, which will be $$$$$$$$$$$. Or you can wear a wig for a day or 2, then get a color correct kit from Sally's. If your hair is orangish/red grab the Unred Color Dabber from Ardell and redo your process. Again this process cannot be rushed, so take your time and you will be fine. If you are impatient please leave this to the Pro's.
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